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2. Pierre Balmain Haute Couture
(founded in 1945)
| The House of
Balmain has always been known for its quintessential chic and its show-stopping
evening dresses. Pierre Balmain (1914-1982) founded his own couture house
on rue Francois 1er in Paris in autumn 1945, immediately after the war.
It was Balmain who created a new image for women, which famous author Gertrude
Stein (1874-1946) saluted as the 'New French Style'. The image is one of
a perfectly groomed elegant woman who knows what she wants. Balmain's image
of the elegant woman was particularly Parisian and was exemplified by the
tailored glamour of the New Look. Balmain learnt the trade with the greatest
designers of the time - Molyneux (1891-1974), the modernist designer of
the 1920s, Lucien Lelong (1889-1958) and Christian Dior (1905-1957).
Today, the Couture House
of Balmain is still on rue Francois 1er in Paris. Numerous international
stars and royalty have had their personal wardrobes designed by Balmain.
Brigitte Bardot, Marlene Dietrich, Katherine Hepburn, Sophia Loren and
Grace Kelly - just to name a few - have been amongst Balmain's clients.
Her Majesty Queen Sirikit of Thailand chose Balmain to be her personal
couturier. Other royal clients include the H.M. The Queen of Belgium and
H.M. The Queen of Denmark. Also the Duchess of Windsor was a customer of
Balmain. |
Pierre Balmain © Balmain
Haute Couture
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Danish designer Erik Mortensen
(born in 1926) came to Balmain in 1948 after studying with Holger Blum,
Copenhagen's premier couturier. In 1950 Mortensen became Balmain's right
hand. When Balmain died in 1982, Mortensen became head designer of the
house until 1990. Mortensen was then followed by Alistair Blair. Hervé
Pierre then took over and managed the house of Balmain until 1992. Karl
Lagerfeld, who is now with Chanel, also trained with the House of Balmain
as a young man.
Oscar de la Renta ©
Balmain Haute Couture
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In January 1993,
internationally renowned American designer Oscar de la Renta was appointed
'Directeur Artistique de la Haute Couture' for the House of Balmain, making
him the first American to head a Parisian couture house. Born in in 1932
in Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic, Oscar de la Renta had previously
worked for Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972) and Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946).
Great Spanish couturier Cristobal Balenciaga also trained other modern
day couturiers such as Hubert de Givenchy, Courrèges and Emanuel
Ungaro.
When de la Renta moved to
New York in 1962 he spent 2 years as designer at Elizabeth Arden. He later
began designing for Jane Derby and on her death in 1965 took over the business
in his own name in 1966. Extravagent evening dresses and ball gowns are
Oscar de la Renta's forte. His client list is a roll call to American society:
Liza Minelli, Nancy Reagan, Joan Collins, Ivana Trump, Jacqueline Onassis
and Fay Dunaway. The flair of Balmain and de la Renta's style are a perfect
symbiosis. |
Address for Haute
Couture Clients (by appointment only, contact Ms. Katja Smirnoff): Pierre
Balmain, 44, rue Francois 1er, 75008 Paris, France, Phone: 0033-1-47.20.35.34,
Fax: 0033-1-47.23.40.11, Balmain does not have a website yet.
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